Watch this video if you want to know how not to lead climb (make sure you click on the high quality version):
WTF? This guy is sketching out, has plenty of opportunities for protection and still fucks himself up. In the fall you see one or two of his placements pop out above the pillar. Oddly, his rack seems to consist entirely of passive pro such as hexes and nuts. If you’re climbing near your limit you shouldn’t go cheap with a rack. Hexes are much more difficult to place securely in Yosemite granite than a set of Friends or C4s. Worse, this fellow got off lucky. The rope behind his ankle (bad mistake!!) means he flipped over. Without a helmet he could have easily busted his skull on top of a broken ankle. On top of this the leader’s stupid belayer is telling him to go for it rather than insert pro. What assholes.
